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Chuck’s Saga of Theme Park Review’s 2023 Scandinavian Trip

UPDATE, January: Linnanmaki (p. 3)

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A Brief Prologue

Looking back on Theme Park Review’s 2023 Scandinavian Trip brings to mind the great Nordic sagas of old. There was excitement, mayhem, and even some heroic bodily injury--not to mention great parks and people, insane new coasters, and lots of good (sometimes odd) food.

So, fill your flagon with ale, mead, or whatever libation you want and drink a hearty toast to Scandinavia and TPR! Sing lusty songs of Taiga, Fonix, Balder, and the other amazing rides, then bang your flagon on the table and shout for more! Above all, drink to the brave souls who took the 100-foot plunge from the SCAD Tower! Yes, there’s plenty to celebrate at these parks.

Or relax and read this trip report. I just hope I remember how to write one.

I was part of the original Scandinavian Trip back in 2009, and while I’ve revisited some of those parks with TPR since (such as Liseberg), I haven’t returned to many of them, and parks such as Djurs Summerland and Farup Summerland have added a lot of new stuff. My thanks to Robb and Elissa for all their work and planning to show all of us a great time in Denmark, Finland, Germany, Norway, and Sweden!

Let’s start in Copenhagen, just as TPR did in 2009. A city noted for beautiful architecture, . . .



. . . lovely parks, . . .



. . . Hans Christian Anderson, . . .



. . . and sometimes provocative statuary.


This was in protest of a proposed parking garage. I’m with the artist on this one.

It also made a great base camp for TPR’s first three parks, starting with one that has, let’s say, somewhat legendary status.


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Part 1
Is It a Fever Dream . . . or BonBon Land?

Ever woke up drenched in sweat and not quite sure of where you are or what happened? If so, you just might be in BonBon Land. Or is that “Bon Bon-Land”? “Bon Bon Land?” At this point, I have no idea. Let’s stick with BonBon Land, as that what the sign says out front.

What can one say about a theme park that was started by a candy company that catered to a child’s infatuation with bodily orifices and functions? That is home not only to the world’s oldest Eurofighter but also to a kiddie coaster celebrating canine flatulence? Where outrageous caricatures and stereotypes are the rule, sensibilities be damned?

All you can do is throw up your hands (and maybe your Danish/Mexican lunch) and say, “See for yourself.” Just go to Denmark and don’t be fooled by what first appears to be a rather old industrial park--there’s parking, roller coasters, and disturbing statues back there, I promise you.

Although the park has changed hands since 2009 and become a trifle less outrageous, you should still be ready to ask this question after your visit: “What in the hell just happened?”


“Ya wanna lick my ice cream bar? It will cost you about 5 percent of your sanity and a bit of your soul!”


This is Vild-Svinet (or “Wild Boar”). It was the first Eurofighter ever built back in 2003.


Yes, it’s themed to a pig race . . .


. . . as envisioned by the legendary Big Daddy Roth. (I have no evidence that the creator of Rat Fink had anything to do with this ride. But this looks pretty “Roth-like.”)


While not exactly smooth as glass . . .


. . . it’s not as painful as you might think.


I think this cat was embarrassed to be seen in public with me.


Or maybe because he’s a cat with a spinning mouse coaster.


Behold the legendary Henry, Lord of the Dog Fart Coaster! Yes, I’m sure that Vikings in Valhalla sing lusty drinking songs in praise of his mighty name.


Yes, Henry might have Irritable Bowel Syndrome.


Whew! Henry feels much better now.


“Yay! We’ve learned so much about the canine colon today! BonBon Land is so educational.”


Now here is a coaster train . . .


. . . of truly epic length. 


Some strong-stomached souls took on this challenge.


I raise my flagon to them.


They conquered not only the Giant Frisbee . . .


. . . but also a Danish/Mexican lunch. (They had these tortilla-wrap sandwiches that were pretty decent.)


Can your heart stand  BonBon Land’s provocative take on “It’s a Small World”?


Is Italy full of depressed dogs in chef’s hats playing the guitar or mandolin? If so, do they suffer from Irritable Bowel Syndrome? BonBon Land is not afraid to ask the tough questions!


Oh, this ought to be good.


Yep--there’s the American experience, alright.


Who will save us from this post-apocalyptic hell space?


Thank you, heroic Australian postal kangaroo! You’ve saved us . . . but for what?


Whew! Good to be back in the ol’ USA, again.


Er, I think it’s good. This certainly took a dark turn.


“Nymph in thy orisons . . .


. . . be all my sins remembered.”


A flume ride themed to rats, cheese, and a sewer?


Eric and I said, “Well, why not?”


“Hi there! I’m smiling, but please remember that I’m still vermin and aid the process of decomposition. It’s the Circle of Life, baby!”


“Like the bug said. But if you get too close to our cheese, you’ll be part of the Circle of Life pretty damn quick--got it?”


Even the bacteria swimming in this water have a role to play in the Circle of Life.


Did all this happen, or was it just one strange dream?


Nah--it happened. BonBon Land will do that to you.


Henry double dog dares you to eat his “candy.” That’s it for BonBon Land.

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Photo by Robb Alvey.


Part 2

The Old Meets the New at Tivoli Gardens

Disney lore says that Tivoli Gardens was part of the inspiration for Disneyland. I don’t doubt it. It’s easy to see how this urban park with its beautiful grounds and attractions meant for the entire family may have influenced Walt Disney to develop a park of his own--and spawn a new form of entertainment in the bargain.

I first visited Tivoli Gardens in 2009 with TPR and immediately became a fan of the place. While it doesn’t have as many attractions as more modern theme parks do, what it has is very good indeed. Throw in Tivoli’s beautiful grounds and good restaurants, and you have a great place to just hang out and relax. As for the park’s attractions, their old-school wooden coaster, with its brake men and “mountain” setting, is still a classic. Daemonen is still the cutest little ‘ol B&M floorless coaster you’ve ever seen. If you’re a fan a crazy flat rides, Tivoli has you covered.

They also have a very entertaining walk-through haunt: Villa Vendetta. The haunt’s story involves a forgotten noble family that used to work in the gardens--but now they’re crazy! I won’t give any surprises away, but the scare actors WILL touch you and steal your hat (I got mine back)--and you better be comfortable walking through in a “conga line” (like Liseberg’s Hotel Gasten).

In short, Tivoli Gardens is an excellent example of the transition from traditional amusement parks to theme parks--and of an outstanding European urban park. It still has the “random” quality of old amusement parks, but also boasts some nicely themed sections.

All theme-park enthusiasts should visit Tivoli. Let’s walk around, shall we?



“Welcome to Tivoli! I shall be happy to walk you over the roller coaster and share some of our park’s history. But first, a friendly word of warning."



"You may encounter clowns!” (Pierrot the clown seems to be a very popular figure at Danish theme parks.)



The park’s classic woodie gives off a bit of a Matterhorn vibe. They had done a lot of work restoring the ride’s original theming since 2009, and it looks great.



Who wants to go backstage?



The roller-coaster ops have a tradition of collecting old signs and props from the park and hanging them in their work area.



You can see a lot of Tivoli’s history in here.



I think this guy may have been working here too long.



Deep inside the mountain itself!


Yep--that’s the track. It’s the job of the brake man to keep the train on it while delivering the best ride possible.



This is one of the oldest operating roller coasters in the world.



A closer look at the mountain’s peak. You need Sherpa guides to climb any higher.



Looks like there’s a nice bit of airtime here.



It takes a special type of ride op to be a brake man . . .



. . . as you can tell.



This is the best Uber ever.



How many backstage tours let you ride down from halfway? (My apologies for not remembering who took this picture--my best guess is Robb or Elissa.)



“Yes, I may look like an adorable little B&M floorless coaster, but I am still a DEMON! FEAR ME!”



It may not be the biggest B&M ride ever built . . .


. . . but it’s a helluva lot of fun. (Photo from Robb Alvey’s rider cam.)



You survived the ride, but the burger might kill you! Scream as the Demon Burger tortures your digestive system in ways you could never imagine! Yet you'll enjoy every second of it! Bwa-ha-ha-ha!



Be careful--even the trash can will try to seduce you to eat a Demon Burger.



“Once upon a time, . . .



. . . a Frisbee and a Condor loved each other very much and made a baby.”



I think Bert really loves camels. Must be the humps.



Make way! Maharajah Big Mike is going on safari. One more set of photos to come.

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More from a great day at Tivoli Gardens!


“Hello! I’m Hans Christian Anderson! Please join me in my Flying Trunk, and I’ll tell you some of my delightful fairy tales.”


“These stories often involve conflicts between the nobility and the working classes.”



“Sometimes, there’s a bit of nudity.”



“Here’s a charming story about a ‘Little Match Girl’ who freezes to death while a wealthy family enjoys Christmas in their nice, warm house. Happy Holidays, everyone!”



“The ‘Snow Queen’ is an enchanting tale involving trolls, mirrors that distort reality, robbery, kidnapping, brainwashing, imprisonment, and forced servitude! It will warm your heart!”



Robb mentioned that this street reminded him of Diagon Alley at Universal.



Walt Disney saw this and thought, “I want my park to be just like this--only without boobs.”



Oh no! My cat, Ligeia, escaped from the kennel and followed me to Copenhagen! She looks crazed!



Maybe I can lose her in the Fun House.



There’s a nice little aquarium, too--but don’t stick your hand in the piranha tank!


The aquarium is available for receptions and other special events. The piranhas would love to have you for dinner.



You were warned to watch out for clowns!



I’d be hard pressed to find a park that’s more beautiful that Tivoli Gardens.



Villa Vendetta is in the building in the background. How many unfortunate souls have lost their hats there?



The only way to destroy a clown is to cut off its head with giant pinchers, then stuff the head with garlic and cotton candy.


The clown was part of a pantomime they’ve been performing at the park for years. This peacock “curtain” was pretty cool.



Some of us enjoyed traditional Danish open-face sandwiches for dinner. This is smoked salmon and a poached egg in a dill sauce--very tasty.



“Ride me again! I dare you!”



“You’ll keep riding until you promise to eat a Screaming Demon Burger! I get 10 percent of the profits from each burger sold! Bwa-ha-ha-ha!”



The sun very gradually sets on Tivoli Gardens.



This is my favorite Star Flyer ride--great view and theming.



I wish the park stayed open a bit later--the lights would be more effective. But the days are very long in Scandinavia this time of year.



Even so, the park still looks nice at twilight.



Time to head out.



Good night, Tivoli! It’s been a great day. My thanks to TPR and the park staff for making it so.

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I dunno HOW I missed that Hans Christian Anderson figure over the dark ride (and I rode it at least 6 times).

thanks for that pic. . .that's a cool touch!

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3 hours ago, Electerik said:

Yeah, the figure is situated in a way that kind of makes it seem like it's part of Deamonen's entrance.

Yep--it's in the shadow of the coaster's track, as shown in this photo.


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Part 3
Welcome to Danish Knoebels?: Bakken

Denmark is home to the two oldest operating amusement parks in the world. Tivoli Gardens is the second oldest, but Bakken is the oldest.

Bakken opened in 1583, and it reminds one a bit of Knoebels--a bunch of rides, games, and restaurants plunked down in the woods. Aside from some of its permanent big rides, Bakken looks like a traveling European fun fair that just decided to settle in one place. Although the park has some clearly defined pathways, the layout seems pretty random, rather than planned. This isn’t a criticism--I like Bakken.

To my mind, the park has two signature attractions. The first is Rutschebanen (or “roller coaster”). When I last visited Bakken with TPR in 2009, this ride still had its old trains and brake men (like its cousin at Tivoli Gardens). But the ride has different trains now and a magnetic braking system--no brake men. The ERT session on this coaster was fun, but not as wild as back in 2009. It still delivers some nice airtime. along with a bit of nudity.

Speaking of wild, the park’s other signature ride is the only Intamin spinning coaster ever built: Tornado. We were the first to ride it that day, and park ran it in “high-speed” mode. This made the ride’s chain lift into more of a launch, and the cars tore through the track, spinning like crazy! I like this ride, but I can only handle the “high-speed” version once. Some of us tried riding the “normal” version later that day, but the ride ops recognized members of the group and always tripped the “high-speed” setting when they rode.

Throw in a wide array of flat rides, a fun haunted house, and a fun house themed to a boat, and that’s Bakken. It’s not a “showplace” like Tivoli Gardens, but it’s still a good park to wile away a day or afternoon. One thing that both parks share, as you may have noticed from the entrance sign--that clown!


Are we here for the Pink Floyd Project or the Bryan Adams Tribute?



“I’m here for Dodo and the Dodos.”



Are you ready for some ERT?



Daniel and Andy look ready.



Everybody’s ready here! (Photo by Andy Hatzos.)



Shane (second row) doesn’t look that ready.



Contrast this with Caroline, who looks rather regal as she rides: “From this throne, I shall rule my kingdom.”



“We were born ready! Now where’s that tunnel with the nekkid woman?”



“Yoo hoo! Over here! But are you guys really ready . . ."



. . . for the splendor that is me?” (Facebook would probably not allow this photo.)



Oh, you think you’re “vilde”?



I’ll show you “vilde”! Seriously, I thought our car would never stop spinning at the end of Tornado.



The Danes have the U.S. figured out.



WHEEL . . . OF . . . BOXING?



“Hi, kids! Count Floyd here with another really scary episode of Monster Chiller Horror Theatre!”



“Oh, this guy scares me! He scares me so much!”



“So, you think clowns are scary? Try blurry GHOST CLOWNS! They scared themselves, they're so scary!”



Yay! Bakken still has Desperadoes!



“Yup--gonna clean up this here town with ol’Bessie.”



“Real men shoot their guns upside down!”



“Shoot off your guns, not your mouths.”



So, Bakken has a fun house that’s really a “boat”?



Why not?



The boat has its own lighthouse? Now we just have to find some rocks not to crash into.



I bet this is still better than Golden Corral.



OK, who broke the boat?



As captain, I’m getting increasingly annoyed with the lack of discipline on this vessel.



These look more like circus peanuts than churros to me.



“Vun Dracula! Two Draculas! Ah, ah, ah!”



This ride is fairly crazy for a family mine-train coaster. It whips around at insane speed. Sometimes, tree branches slap your face!



But Mine Train Ulven has its own cat, so it's cute.



The American Experience as seen in Denmark.



This fellow used to be the park’s ambassador in days past. He had interesting taste in neckwear.



He was a fairly creepy Santa Claus, too.



Do not disturb Robb while he's making art.



“Who dares to challenge me for this pretzel remnant?”



What? I missed the clown show? Darn it.



No, I don’t need to go that badly, thank you.



Spot Robb in this photo. Maybe you’ll win a kewpie doll (most likely not).



My thanks to TPR and the Bakken staff for such an enjoyable day. I like these old prints.

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Part 4
A Long Way from LEGOLAND: Hansa Park

The beautiful entry way to Hansa Park in northern Germany resembles an old Baltic seaport, but it wasn’t always like that. This park was the original home of the first LEGO Miniland; thus, it was the first “LEGOLAND.” But LEGOLAND had long since moved to Billund in Denmark, and Hansa went on to forge its own identity as a theme park.

There used to a be a “half-finished” quality to Hansa. During the TPR 2009 Scandinavia Trip, Hansa had the typical “Wild West” town you see in many theme parks, along with a wide expanse of grass with some random rides plopped down on it and a ropes course. It also had Flulcht von Nogorod, a fully operational launched Eurofighter with only partly finished theming. They operated the ride, but the queue and show building were a mix of castle halls and bare plywood. This has since been finished and now looks great.

During my second visit with TPR, they’d added Karnan, an excellent Gertlauser Infinity coaster themed to a mythical castle--again, it was a fully operational ride in a partly finished castle. It’s done now, and the whole area around Karnan, which was once that “wide expanse of grass with some random rides,” boasts new attractions, including another very well themed family coaster (Schlange von Midgard) that even has its own preshow.

Scotland has also come to Hansa Park. The park’s classic Schwarzkopf looper, Nessie, now has its own castle. The section surrounding that coaster has never looked better--or more Scottish.

It’s been fun watching Hansa evolve into a full-fledged theme park. I’m even listening to the soundtrack to Karnan as I post this (thanks for the CD, Hansa). It’ll be interesting to see what they come up with next.


What time did we enter Hansa? I forget.



The Wild West town of New Lubek hasn’t changed much since 2009. 



Karnan looms menacingly in the fog. ERT awaits!



The castle courtyard and keep look great--nice to see it all finished.



Sir, I assume that those are your legs? This is part of the preshow, where you hear about the the legend of Kranan--a medievel castle that was once impregnable and could very well be haunted or cursed. (Don’t you hate it when you discover an impregnable castle and it's cursed?)



This is a lousy picture but it’s the only one I have of the library. These bookshelves hide the lockers where you must stash all loose items, including phones and glasses. They also made the ride safety instructions part of the theming. Can’t have anything falling and hurting someone who’s excavating artifacts in the castle, can we?



Karnan is a coaster that I find legitimately scary--like Hershey’s Skyrush. There’s crazy airtime all over the place!  



Looks like Karnan has a huge blister, or maybe a bladder infection.



We’ll have another look at this wonderful, insane coaster later.



Crazy Mine is one of those old wild mouse coasters that will have you laughing hysterically as it beats your to death. (It’s across from Karnan but I think it's technically part of the Old West town.)



Everybody sing along: “Hop aboard the Crazy Mine! It’ll crack your knees and snap your spine! You’ll be at the ER in good time! But it’s all in fun on the Crazy Mine! Yeehaw! Bang! Bang! Wa-hoo!”



Yep--your typical Euro-park version of a Wild West town.



Here’s a sign you won’t see in any Disney Frontierland.



Sigh! I suck at being a cowboy.



The Sheriff’s Office is next to the Christmas shop, just in case your holidays get a little too “merry.”



This is German for “y’all come back now--hear?”



We still cannot escape the watchful eyes of a clown.



I remember when the brickwork only went about halfway up Flucht von Novgorod.



It’s gotten a bit rougher since I last rode it, but it’s still fun.



Sheesh! First it’s creepy clowns, now it’s scarecrows! Somebody light the Bat Signal!



We’re just in time to see the Talking Heads, er, Head.



This place has stopped making sense! Gerstlauer, get me outta here!



Then it whipped around and took me back inside! There’s probably some psycho killer in there now!



That looks a little damp.



Eric and I decided to find out how damp. (Photo by Jere.)



I found out the most.



We didn’t ride this, but I thought it was a nice variation on a carousel. More to come.


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There's some more Hansa Park left.



My . . . that’s a big one.



At 290 feet, Highlander is a tallest gyro drop tower in the world.



It also has tilting seats, so an athletic cup might come in handy, gents.



I remember when Nessie had a standard generic coaster station like you’d see at a Cedar Fair park.



Now it has a castle . . .



. . . and a very stately main hall.



It’s good to see the old girl get some love.



I like these old Schwarzkopfs a lot.



Watch out Nessie! The Royal Scotsman is trying to take advantage of you!



There’s a nice pop of air here.



The backside of Nessie.



The train ride is both scenic and useful (lots of stops).



To get some more photos of Karnan, we must first make our way through the jungle.



Watch out for snakes smoking cigars.



Hooray for Jungle Jere, the famed African explorer and notary public!



I’d show you the backside of water, but Disney might sue.



“You couldn’t handle the backside of water, anyway. Much too intense!”



Here we see Irrawaddy Eric, famed safari guide. He can also validate your parking.



“Ole, ole! It’s showtime!” (Not according to this cease-and-desist order from Disney.)



Let’s have another look at the wonderfully tangled mess that is Karnan.



This hot mess of a ride could use some psychoanalysis.



But if it ever got its head on straight . . .



. . .  it wouldn’t be as amazing or hair raising as it is now!



You just keep on being you, Karnan!



Let’s not forget Midgard.



 It’s one of the best themed kiddie coasters ever.



“I see you survived Karnan, thus proving you are worthy enough to be my slaves, er, subjects.”



Thanks for a great day, Hansa!

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great memories of Hansa (and I totally forgot they gave us that CD . .need to find where I put it!)

I absolutely adore that Nessie logo, and was disappointed that Nessie was really the only coaster they didnt' sell shirts for!  (they told me they sold out and hadn't restocked).  :(


but I really liked this park a LOT, and glad to see the Jungle Safari, as I wasn't sure who else rode it as it was kinda hidden in the center of the park!


great pics, Chuck. .and you make a fine Cowboy. . .just riding "reverse Cowgirl" (wait. .that sounds. ."wrong")

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On 7/25/2023 at 7:14 PM, bert425 said:

I really liked this park a LOT, and glad to see the Jungle Safari, as I wasn't sure who else rode it as it was kinda hidden in the center of the park!

We absolutely never would have seen this ride if someone hadn't posted about it in the group chat. Even actively looking for it, it was tough to find!

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27 minutes ago, Electerik said:

We absolutely never would have seen this ride if someone hadn't posted about it in the group chat. Even actively looking for it, it was tough to find!

I think that was probably me who posted about it?  

but that doesn't mean that Chuck hadn't found it first :)

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The haunted walkthrough sounds like a great addition to Tivoli Gardens.  Walking through in the conga line really freaks me out if I'm not in the front as my view as hindered.  Also, the salmon as Tivoli Gardens looks just as good as year ago.

Regarding Bakken, always great to see a working Desperados.


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^Yep--up by Helix.




Part 5
The Nice Park with One Big Thrill: Tivoli Friheden

First, I’d like to say that Tivoli Friheden in Aarhus, Denmark, is a nice family park and a pleasant place to wile away a day. Second, I’d like to point out that the park actually improved itself by getting rid of two coasters. One was a Pinfari Looper, which was just plain bad. The other was the infamous Cobra, an inverted coaster by Sartori, which was, let’s say, way beyond being "just plain bad.” The only coasters left now are a Zamperla spinning mouse (Tyfonen), a Wacky Worm with a dragon train, and a powered spinner themed to bees.

This left the park with one big thrilling attraction: a SCAD Tower with a 100-foot free-fall drop into a net. I did this back in 2009, and I’m glad I did. However, I didn’t feel like tempting fate twice, so I watched others plummet to their near doom this time around. I salute them all!

Even so, I still enjoyed the park. The grounds are very pretty, and there’s a nice assortment of rides for everyone, including a shooting dark ride, a “House of Illusions,” and a bizarre little mini-golf course.

According to rcdb.com, Friheden is planning to open a new Eurofighter in 2024. This sounds like a good fit for the park.

Here’s a quick tour of Tivoli Friheden.  As you can tell from the picture above, the Lions Club likes it, too.


I was wearing a blue shirt, but I’m not a member of the Lions Club.



Who’s ready for some family fun plunging 100 feet while strapped to what looks like a 1950s era plastic lounge chair?



Don’t worry. The clown says you’ll be fine.



The brave souls will start up there . . .



. . . and end up here.



Steve and Bert give the thumbs up while Shane prays behind them. All responses are appropriate. (Then again, maybe Shane is walking like an Egyptian.)



Here’s a chance to rethink your life choices.



Trust me. I’ve been there. It’s too late to change your mind.






“Er, am I still alive? Is anyone here St. Peter?”



Unless these little cherubs are in heaven, the answer is “yes, you are still alive.”



The tower is no illusion, but this house is full of them.



O-o-o-o-o . . . trippy.



I think I may have lapped myself across multiple universes.



This used to be an old-school dark ride through a haunted hotel. It even had an “elevator” at the beginning. But now it’s a video shooter with some of the old gags still popping up and scaring people. And it's in "5D"!



Eric looks a bit nervous about having to fight zombies. Or maybe he's afraid the clown is in there.



The mouse spins pretty well, if you like that sort of thing.



Here we see a daring young fellow standing on a black swan. I don’t think I’d want to fall in that pond. Water looks a bit questionable.



Tivoli Friheden is a very pretty park.



It’s also bee friendly.



Boy, does this park love bees!



Spinning, buzzing bees rule! Everyone loves bees!



Here’s another way for you to plunge from a great height.



The layout of the course was a bit odd, so people seemed to jump from hole to hole regardless of what order they were in while drinking beer. Real golf should be like this.



Yes, the basket is the hole.



Here’s a very deceptive obstacle. At most mini-golf courses, you’d assume that the objective is to hit the ball up the ramp and through this contraption to get close to the hole. But if you do, your ball will end up on the wrong side of the green.



Remember: The clown is always watching!

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what a fantastic update!

That tower scared me so much, i was too frightened to scream.  (I was quiet the entire drop. .and then cried after).



and I don't know how in the world I missed a shooting ride up by Helix!  (unless I did it and just don't recall.. I'll have to go thru my pics!).

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11 hours ago, bert425 said:

and I don't know how in the world I missed a shooting ride up by Helix!  (unless I did it and just don't recall.. I'll have to go thru my pics!).

I think it opened later in the day, and it would've been easy to miss, as it was tucked away in a corner.

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