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In celebration of the end of my local Jaycees presidency, I took a vacation last week to San Antonio. Not only did I get to cross off another must-see item on my rapidly shrinking list of things to see in the United States (the Alamo), but I got to spend time with temperatures in the high 60s compared to home, which dropped as low as 9 degrees one night while I was gone (the low tonight is supposed to be 6).

 

Anyway, I thought I'd share with my TPR friends. I'll post Day One tonight, with more to follow later in the weekend. Enjoy!

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I escaped the onslaught and ran for the safety of my hotel room, where, having been awake for most the past 34 hours with only a 45-minute nap somewhere around the 19-hour mark, I slept for the next 14 hours straight!

 

That will conclude Day One. Day Two coming soon.

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Or maybe this explains it! Walking back toward my hotel, away from the restaurant, the skies were dark with birds! It was like that Hitchcock movie! There were thousands of them, and they just kept coming, perching on everything in sight!

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This duck kept nipping at me until I crunched up a tortilla chip and threw it on the sidewalk for him. Once he was finished, he came back and nipped some more until I did it again. I was happy to pay my bill and get out of there--this bird was getting pretty violent toward the end!

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After the sun set, a mariachi band began strolling from table to table.

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And then the food came. It was... OK. I had always heard Texas was known for its Mexican food, but frankly, this was about the same quality as I can get from my local Mexican place. Good... but kind of a letdown.

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Nothing like sitting by the river, sipping a margarita.

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This was the view from said table.

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My table was the one with the red umbrella, fourth from the left on the river.

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After all that exploring, I was hungry again. I decided to dine at the River Walk's oldest restaurant, Casa Rio, which opened in 1946.

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This made me happier than anything else on the entire trip. I had seen pictures of the River Walk lit up for Christmas, but was unable to travel until January. They still had ONE single tree lit along the river! Apparently two city employees are responsible for lighting the whole river. They start hanging lights in October and take them down starting the day after New Year's. They hadn't quite gotten around to this tree yet.

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St. Anthony stands watch over his river. The river--and the city--actually got its name because explorers discovered it on St. Anthony's Day. This statue was a gift from Portugal to commemorate the 1968 World's Fair, which San Antonio (the city, not the saint) hosted.

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I took a shortcut through the mall on my way to the River Walk at one point, and I ran across this. Single ladies of TPR, I ask you: If your significant other chose THIS as his means of proposal, would you honestly say yes? Anybody?

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River taxis take patrons to the waterfront Rivercenter Mall, which apparently is shown a lot as a "location shot" when the San Antonio Spurs basketball team is broadcast nationally.

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The Nix Medical Center was originally built to correspond to existing property lines, giving it a uniqe appearance, especially from this angle, where it looks like a movie flat. Even more unique is its ground floor--because of its position along the River Walk, where all ground floor space must be used for retail or dining, the hospital leases its first floor to the Dick's Last Resort chain... making it quite possibly the only hospital in the world with a built-in bar!

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They're renovating this awesome-looking old silent movie theater along the River Walk. When completed, it should be fully equipped with an organ to replicate the sound and feel of the silent movie screenings of the 1910s and '20s.

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Selena also has a star on San Antonio's version of the Walk of Fame... though to be honest, hers was the only star I noticed. All the others were just blank, star-shaped patches of concrete.

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There are many bridges along the River Walk, and though they're all different, they all started looking the same to me after awhile. One of them (not this one) was called Selena's Bridge, as it was located near the home of San Antonio singing sensation Selena. Apparently a key scene in the movie "Selena" with Jennifer Lopez was filmed atop that bridge.

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This Italian restaurant on the River Walk, Stefania's Dolores del Rio, had two trees growing out of its wall! The larger one came first, while the smaller one (fig tree) later attached itself to the same root system.

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Several buildings in San Antonio also have these carved stone faces, called "grotesques," built in. They're supposed to ward off evil spirits.

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You have to squint to see them in this photo, but the Smith-Young Tower (the tallest building west of the Mississippi upon its completion in 1929) has gargoyles surrounding its highest levels. At night I could see them back-lit from my hotel room!

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This amphitheater stage apparently served as the background for a climactic scene in the movie "Miss Congeniality." I wouldn't know anything about that. However, the five bells used to decorate the state represent the five original missions of San Antonio (bet Sandra Bullock didn't know that).

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With the vast savings I achieved by not going into the Ripley's attractions, I was able to take not just one but two guided tours of the River Walk, one during the day and one at night... and still have more than $30 left over. This was my daytime guide, Chris.

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Most of the waterways on the River Walk itself are only two to three feet deep... but you've always got to be on the lookout for plastic aligators!

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Though it may look pretty, the River Walk's main purpose is to keep the downtown area from flooding by providing an underground runoff system for the San Antonio River. Some of the bridges, like this one, are actually flood control gates.

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Next on my agenda was the beautiful San Antonio River Walk.

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...and whomever these people are supposed to be.

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...whomever this is...

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...long time Dallas Cowboys football coach Tom Landry...

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...Tiger Woods...

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The wax museum contained more than 250 figures of celebrities including Lance Armstrong...

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Four doors down at the other corner was the wax musuem, represented by this audio-animatronic dinosaur. For reasons that aren't 100 percent clear to me.

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And this is a small (microscopic, really) portion of the track layout.

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Fortunately, a small portion of the ride itself was also visible from the street. This was the part where you were told not to look into the eyes of Mara (or something like that).

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These were the audio-animatronic "barkers" for the Tomb Rider attraction, a ride-through shooting gallery on the order of Buzz Lightyear's Space Ranger Spin, only presumably nowhere near as good. I really wanted to try it out--but not at $19 for a five-minute ride. That's nearly $4 per minute! I didn't see a single person enter this attraction during my three days in San Antonio, in fact.

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However, I did photograph what I could without paying admission. This is "Stumpy" from Haunted Adventure.

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OK, as a reward for reading through all that (you did read through all that, didn't you?), I am pleased to announce that directly across the street from the Alamo exist five Ripley's attractions: the Ripley's Believe It or Not Museum (seen here), the Guiness Book of World Records Museum, Ripley's Haunted Adventure, Louis Tussaud's Wax Museum and Tomb Rider. Admission to each started at $19, with a five-way combo ticket going for $48. Because of this, I didn't set foot in any of them, believe it... or not!

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They, along with fellow commander Jim Bowie (who contracted a mysterious disease days before the final battle and may have died of natural causes before it even began), are buried at San Antonio's historic San Fernando Cathedral.

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The sides represent those who fought the battle, including commanders William Barrett Travis and Davy Crockett (who had already reached his term limit as King of the Wild Frontier by then).

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Across the street stands a large monument to those who gave their lives at the Alamo (which, for those who don't already know, is the most famous battle of the Texas revolution that ultimately kept the state out of the hands of Mexico). The front consists of a giant naked man on fire.

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In 1836, the No. 1 cause of death at the Alamo was cannon fire. Today it's malaria.

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This is the Daughters of the Republic of Texas Library, where the public may conduct research using historic Alamo-related documents. Personally, I just thought the building looked kind of neat.

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But there is a light at the end of the tunnel--AKA the exit.

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For those who aren't bored enough by history, there's also a garden.

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I'm not going to claim to really understand this, but in 1914 Dr. Shiga Shigetaka, a professor from Waseda University in Japan, decided that the battle of the Alamo reminded him so much of Japan's 1575 battle of Nagashino Castle that he wrote a poem about it, had it carved into stone and donated it to the Alamo. Probably received tenure for it, too.

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This is the cannon historians believe fired the first shot on the Alamo.

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This display represents the six flags that have flown over Texas under changes of sovereignty: United States, Republic of Texas, Confederate States, Mexican, French and Spanish. These are also the flags that are responsible for the name of the Six Flags theme parks, which began as a lone park themed to these six eras of Texas history.

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No photos allowed inside the Alamo itself, unfortunately, so we'll move on to the courtyard.

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To the side is the Long Barrack, where the defenders slept.

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From the back you can clearly see where the roof (darker stones) was added years after the battle.

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See that round chunk taken out of the bottom? Yep, cannonball did that.

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Much of the original ornate stone carving still exists at the entrance.

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OK, here's where that historical stuff starts coming into play. This is what the Alamo looked like immediately following the 1836 battle (the one everyone is supposed to remember). Originally--even at the time of the battle--the building had no roof. And that roundy thing over the entrance at the top? Not even added until 1936. History has been lying to you, people!

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Now that lunch is out of the way, I present for your consideration: the Alamo.

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OMFG! If you do nothing else this year, you have got to get to this restaurant! Seriously, sell a kidney if you have to. This picture doesn't even do it justice; the burger overhang on the right is hidden by the basket of fries, itself oversized enough to mask the true gargantuanness (<--not even a real word) of this burger. It's basically a giant meat patty topped with about six pounds of melty, stringy cheese with tortilla chips crunched up in between. Go ahead, go to San Antonio and pick up one right now. I'll wait.

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Ahem... now that that's out of the way, my first stop in San Antonio was Chris Madrid's. I heard they had good cheeseburgers, and after the $26 round-trip cab fare I paid to get here, I had better have heard right!

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This TR is loaded with historic junk, so I'm bound to lose at least few of you after the first half dozen photos. It is for you that I am posting this photo first, from the Buckhorn Saloon Museum. I don't even know what else to say except I really, REALLY want some crotch powder!

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Posted

Once again, you've toured a place I haven't seen yet, and brought it across well. Very cool to see all this.

 

...and whomever these people are supposed to be.

 

Pretty sure the guy Johnny Cash, however the lady's a mystery. Anne Gillian maybe?

 

Looking forward to the next round. Great job so far.

Posted

Nice TR. One of these days I'll have to go see the Alamo. That way, I'll remember it.

 

As for the Ripley's place, it looks like more of a ripoff.

 

Eric

Posted

Day Two.

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Day Two began with another sighting of "grotesques," this time at the Emily Morgan Hotel.

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On my way back to the hotel, I stopped by the "Torch of Friendship," which was presented to San Antonio by the Mexican government to help commemorate the 1968 World's Fair.

 

Thus concludes Day Two. Day Three up soon!

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Three hurricanes later, I stopped into Coyote Ugly, mostly because they weren't charging cover and I'd never actually seen the inside of one except in the movie. I stayed long enough to see one semi-attractive bartender dance on the bar. I wasn't impressed, and the place had a definite funk to it, so I left about five minutes after I entered.

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...and some bread pudding for dessert. It wasn't as good as the Mexican bread pudding from earlier, but it wasn't bad.

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I knew I probably shouldn't be drinking hurricanes without eating at least a little something with them. The special included half-price appetizers, so I settled on the alligator bites at $4...

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The main reason I came here: the hurricane! I don't drink much, but I do enjoy these. Plus they were running an off-season, mid-week special, so these little babies were just $2 each!

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Yep, we're definitely at Pat O's. This was actually the smallest one I'd been in.

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I still wasn't hungry after my huge Mexican lunch, but I knew I needed to eat something before retreating to my hotel for the evening, and I always like to check out Pat O'Brien's (photo taken earlier in the day for light's sake).

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Sadly, it turned out to be little more than an artist colony, which didn't interest me in the least. Still, here are a couple nice shots of the courtyard.

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They certainly put a lot of work into making the entrance look nice.

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From the museums, it was onward to La Villita, which seemed like a promising area when I passed it the day before.

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"Eh, it beats working at Disney's Animal Kingdom."

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Somebody stole Roo!

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This one got its antlers caught in barbed wire.

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The museum seemed to take a particularly macabre interest in the misfortunes of deer. These two got their horns locked in battle and subsequently starved to death when they couldn't detach from one another.

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"Duh, gee, Tennessee...."

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Sadly, there was no stuffed and mounted Hurley to be found nearby.

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Proof once again that King Kong faked his own death in the Universal Studios fire.

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The rest of the museum consisted of displays of stuffed and mounted animals from around the world.

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...and a two-headed calf.

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...a Fiji Island Merman and the remains of other odd creatures...

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Then there were the oddities on display, such as shrunken heads...

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...and author O. Henry. Note the lack of Mexican cheese curls on his table.

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...the Texas Rangers fending off cattle poachers...

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...Texas' involvement in the Civil War...

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...Confederate General Robert E. Lee trading with the local Native Americans...

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...Stephen Austin, the "Father of Texas"...

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...Republic of Texas President Sam Houston...

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Other wax displays featured important figures and moments in Texas history, such as pirate Jean Lafitte...

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Roosevelt worked in San Antonio briefly (for about 12 days, actually), recruiting and training men for the Rough Riders. This picture of a deer, created out of rattlesnake rattles, was presented to him during his time there.

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You better believe Teddy Roosevelt had one.

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Ready for a disturbing image? All these chairs are made from the horns of dead steers. Some furniture maker in Texas specialized in them for dozens of years and sold them not only to oil-crazed Texans, but many foreign heads of state, as well.

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The other museum in the Buckhorn was, fittingly enough, called the Buckhorn Museum. This was the first thing you saw when you entered the room: an exhibit on the history of saddles and Jack Daniels memorabilia.

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Another great ad, though with much less nudity than the one for crotch powder.

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They also had a mock-up of Texas outlaw team Bonnie and Clyde's death car.

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This is what the original Buckhorn looked like, some historians may believe.

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This was the part of the display that contained the crotch powder ad that I'm sure everyone enjoyed from the first part of this TR. It was hanging behind the editor in the newspaper office.

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And a large-scale mock-up of an Old West town that took up several rooms.

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Aside from two rooms, however, the museum really didn't have much to do with the Texas Rangers (neither the law enforcement agency or the baseball team) at all. Most were just random displays. Like this stuffed and mounted horse that once belonged to silent movie cowboy star William S. Hart.

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This Texas State Police badge, used during the two-year span following the Civil War when the Texas Rangers were temporarily disbanded, was pretty neat.

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And this one. Not even a single mention of Chuck Norris.

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The Texas Rangers part of the museum didn't have exhibits on people like Nolan Ryan and Ivan Rodriguez (though it would have been infinitely more interesting if it had). Instead, there were exhibits on people I had never heard of, like this guy.

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This was the reason I decided to venture inside. I gritted my teeth, paid my $17 (I had a dollar off coupon from the tourism office) and entered the museum. It wasn't quite as blatant a tourist trap as the Ripley's attractions... but it came dangerously close.

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They had a display of old beer bottles inside. "King of the Hill" fans will know why I took this picture. I actually made a point of watching an episode while in Texas just for the irony of it.

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This is what the nation's oldest saloon looks like on the inside.

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Near the Alamo Antiques Mall sits the Buckhorn Saloon, supposedly the oldest saloon in the United States. Supposedly important people along the lines of Teddy Roosevelt and Pancho Villa once drank there. Today you can go inside, pay $18 to tour its two museums, buy some T-shirts and souvenir coins in its gift shop and bring the kids for a chicken fingers dinner.

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Oh, how I wish I'd had the means of carrying this back to Maryland with me! In the Alamo Antiques Mall sits this framed advertisement from the Armitage-Herschell Co., predecessor to the famous Herschell-Spillman Co., advertising a new steam-powered flying horses ride. I don't know if it was original or not, but it certainly looked it. A piece of amusement park history for only $65!

 

FYI, my birthday is in July, so any TPR readers in the San Antonio area who would like to buy me a gift....

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Six Flags wasn't open, but the San Antonio Tourism Office graciously provided this window display so I could see what I was missing. Consider it my gift to you: a prelude of the TPR Texas Trip.

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The only authentic piece of furniture in the whole house was this cherry wood table, on which O. Henry penned "The Gift of the Magi," "The Caballero's Way" (which introduced the Cisco Kid) and countless other classic short stories. Two employees/volunteers were eating Mexican cheese curls off of it when I walked in.

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The most interesting site I encountered on my walk back was the home of author O. Henry! It's small, located near the Bexar County Parole and Probation Office, and nearly everything inside is just random old furniture they found to stick in there, but admission is free, and as a writer (albeit one who tends to overuse commas, semicolons and ellipses), I thought it was pretty cool. It wasn't listed in any of the tourism literature I picked up.

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It seems like every major U.S. tourist city has a fancy old neon-covered Walgreen's building. This one was in the process of being gutted.

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I miss Golden Dreams :(

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On the walk back to the downtown area, I came across a number of interesting sites. Like this one. San Antonio--now with air conditioning!

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Which, of course, is available for weddings.

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And with that, we enter into the courtyard.

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This is the bed on which the governor did the nasty. Actually, it's a reproduction. It's a fake governor's woo-woo bed (to use the technical term).

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I toured a lot of historic sites in San Antonio, and this was one of only two that bothered to mentioned that Native Americans once controlled this area. Hey, the European settlers didn't discriminate--they stole land from Indians here, too! This was the room in which tribal leaders gathered to bargain and sign treaties with Spanish officials.

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This was the chapel, which of course is what every home had before they invented HDTV.

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They said the ornaments on the palace door represented the story of Spain's involvement in Texas. The seashells at the top represent the Nina, Pinta and Santa Maria. Unfortunately, that's about all I remember.

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And here's the Spanish governor himself. Not pictured is his little sidekick, Sprout.

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My next stop was the Spanish Governor's Palace, used when Texas was a Spanish colony. Who knew the Spanish governor lived in a two-bedroom rancher?

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Across the street from Market Square is the San Antonio Farmers Market. I bought some Mexican candy here to try later. So far my favorite is the dried, salted tamarind rind. They also had dried sweet potatoes, but I certainly couldn't have eaten one right then, and they didn't look like they would travel too well.

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And then there was the restaurant's bakery! I had thought about coming here for breakfast, but didn't wake up in time. There was no way I could try any of its offerings by the time lunch was over--and it all looked amazing. I purchasaed a slice of Mexican bread pudding for later and continued on my way.

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And then came the main course! I was pretty full after the just nachos, but this was just ridiculous! I forced myself to eat about half and then just surrendered. With this much food for under $7, absolutely no one in San Antonio should be going hungry! Needless to say, this place blew Casa Rio out of the water (no pun intended)!

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The waiter gave me both a regular menu and one listing the $6.55 lunch specials. The special of the day looked good, but at that price I doubted it would be too filling. It had been more than 20 hours since I had last eaten anything at that point. Several websites had recommended the nachos here, so I decided to start with them.

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On the other side of the entrance, they still had their Christmas decorations up.

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This was the display immediately inside the front door. It was then and there that I knew this was going to be a good experience.

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Ah, but then there was this place. Situated in the heart of Market Square, it and Chris Madrid's flip-flopped for first and second in the "must try restaurant" section of every piece of tourism literature I read about San Antonio. And it's older than Casa Rio!

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"Hey ladies, you like my big cigar?"

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Like Mexican wrestling masks, for example.

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While quite a pretty area, Market Square is not much more than a huge tourist trap full of Mexican-esque souvenirs no one could possibly ever need.

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It seems like every major U.S. tourist city has one of these trolly systems in place anymore. I took this one (not this particular trolly, but the trolly system) to Market Square.

Posted

Great TR! I really love San Antonio. We were only there for a couple of days and thus didn't get the chance to dive in for more than the River Walk and Alamo area. We also got to take in a few events during their Fiesta!

 

When we were there in 2007 that Tomb Raider Dark Ride was themed to something else, but everything at Ripley's is so overpriced that I can't believe people actually pay for those attractions. Thank you again for all of the great pictures and history.

Posted

Great Pictures!

I really enjoy you reports Jason!

 

Your report is a prelude to my San Antonio trip. I'll be there Feb. 11-15 for the Texas Music Educators Convention. I'm getting really excited for my trip. The convention is the biggest music convention and it's so much fun!

Like having Hurricanes at O'Brians! Good Times!!!

 

Oh by way I'm one of those who loves the historical stuff.

 

Thanks for sharing!!

Posted

Thanks, everyone, for the positive comments. You know, I was leaning toward Johnny Cash and Sarah Jessica Parker for those two figures. I guess what threw me off was that they don't look anything like Johnny Cash or Sarah Jessica Parker....

 

^^^^^Shawn, I spent most of last year reading your online travel journal and enjoyed every second of it. Glad I could repay the favor in some small way.

 

^^Jakizle, Chris Madrid's isn't downtown; it's at the corner of Blanco and Hollywood. Based on what I read about it online, I thought it was one of those "best kept secrets" that everyone knew about, but neither the desk clerk at the hotel nor my cab driver had ever heard of it, and they both lived in San Antonio (obviously).

 

Speaking of my cab driver, I forgot to share this story: In talking with him on the way to the restaurant (every cab driver I had was extremely friendly and talkative), we determined that he grew up just a couple hours away from me in Maryland! I traveled halfway across the continent, and the first person I met was a "local" from back home!

 

"Back home," in fact, is where I was traveling for the last half of Day Three, but I did squeeze in a couple more thrills that morning....

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And I will conclude this TR with a night shot of the Alamo taken at the end of Day Two. Thanks for your hospitality, San Antonio. I can now officially cross you off my list of places to see!

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My last morsel of food in San Antonio: apple cobbler topped with Blue Bell ice cream. I'd heard this Texas-based ice cream was pretty good. It was!

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The ribs, sausage and chopped brisket were... OK. The sauce was a little much. Personally, I don't think I'll ever have ribs that top the ones I tried last year at Rendezvous in Memphis, but hey, there's no such thing as a bad rib!

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After touring Hemisfair Park, I had time for one more meal in San Antonio. I debated whether I wanted to try a Texas steak or some Texas barbecue. Staying loyal to my position as a certified barbecue judge, I opted for barbecue and ended up at The County Line on the River Walk.

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This building, on the other hand, does have some significance. When a large upscale hotel chain (again, the Hilton or Hyatt--I don't remember which) wanted to build on the site of San Antonio's historic 1906 Fairmont Hotel, the city would not let the company use the land unless it agreed to preserve the hotel. The company hoisted the 3.2 million-pound structure with a crain and moved it an average .4 miles per day over six days to its new location just over two miles away without breaking a single window or losing a single brick. It set a new world record for the heaviest building successfully moved, and this is the result: the newly relocated Fairmont Hotel.

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This building, located right next to the park, belonged to one of the major upscale hotel chains (Hilton, I think, though I'm not sure enough to commit to that). It doesn't really have any significance other than I liked the shot, so I included it in my TR. Deal with it!

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These are the trashcans at Hemisfair Park. You know Cedar Fair is jealous.

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Also included with my $12 ticket was this less-than-phenomenal "4-D" show, Skies Over Texas. Think of it as Soarin' Over California, except it's over Texas instead of California. And the seats never leave the ground. And they only move about six inches from side to side throughout the program. And the movement isn't exactly synched up with the film. And a narrator tells you the entire time how great and wonderful and utterly fantastic Texas is because they have high school football and swamps. And they don't even show the Dallas Cowboys Cheerleaders.

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And there's my hotel!

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I had to search, but I finally found the Alamo from on high.

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I have no idea what the sunflower-looking building is, but it was the most attractive thing to see from the top of the tower. Everything else was just highways and gray buildings.

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This is what the park looks like from 750 feet up.

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And then I took the elevator 60 stories to the top... and this was the first thing I saw. In fact, the entire tower was littered with coin-op machines. A little strapped for cash are we, Hemisfair Park?

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I bought my $12 ticket, walked through the doors of this mighty, once record-holding structure... and this was the first thing I saw.

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At 60 stories tall, the Tower of the Americas is the nation's second-tallest observation tower, behind the Stratosphere in Las Vegas. Take that, Space Needle!

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Ah, here's what we really came to the park to see.

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Granted, San Antonio was going through the worst drought since records had been kept... but you gotta keep those fountains turned on for the tourists!

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Hemisfair Park had an abundance of fountains. I'll spare you and only include the two most unique.

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The Henry B. Gonzalez Convention Center had panels that, when the sun hit them just right, projected the outlines of horses on the building. Truly, this does belong in the "Ramdom, Random, Random" thread.

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And here, for some reason, are some random steps in the middle of a hill.

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This was another gift from Mexico to San Antonio. I don't remember the exact name of the sculpture, but it was something along the lines of "Welcome Neighbors." Which I assume is code for "Thanks for not patching up those holes in the border fence."

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This is Olmec. On loan from the Homer Simpson collection.

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OK, back to the educational portion of this TR. This may look like an ordinary drainage ditch, but in reality it's the Acequia Madre de Valero, the main irrigation ditch of San Antonio's Valero Mission, built in 1718. There was a plaque nearby recognizing it as a National Historic Civil Engineering Landmark.

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This one was the Halff House, built by an immigrant merchant in 1893.

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Old homes were on display at the park's entrance, though they weren't open for interior tours, and I honestly wasn't 100 percent sure what their significance was.

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The city of Berlin, Germany, donated this bear sculpture to the city of San Antonio for the fair.

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This was the fair's symbol.

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I spent my last morning in San Antonio at Hemisfair Park, site of the 1968 World's Fair. Anyone who read my Behemoth/Flyer trip report already knows I'm kind of a World's Fair nut, so this was a special treat!

Posted

Thanks again for the trip report. We went to Hemisfair Park but opted not to go in the tower because the entrance fee was too high. Just looking at the BBQ makes my mouth water. We went to Rudy's Bar B Que in San Antonio and it was honestly the best that I have ever had.

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