riccoaster wrote:Oh I have a question how do you get and make the rails for the coaster?
From what I've seen, it's definitely something that needs to be learned from experience and trial and error. But, in a nutshell,, it's just layers of wood, bent around the curvature of rises and falls. Using small pieces will help relive stress. Layered 4-5 times, staggered (covering each gap in a pattern), so that the wood can flex with the weight of the train.
On turns, the same thing is done, except each piece is cut to fit in diagonally, to get a rough shape of the turn. Then the excess wood is cut out, smoothly, to get a somewhat smooth radius turn.
The top layers are done the same way, however the wood is placed 2" outwards to create a lip (I think that it could be scaled down a bit, but it all depends on what size wheels you use). These layers need to be the most precise, and need the most amount of nails because these are what the running, guide, and upstop wheels run on. The top, inside lip, and under the lip should be layered with steel or graphite for friction management. This will also help the track in that the raw steel wheels aren't bouncing on the wood itself, thus it won't splinter.
Each rail should be done at the same time, going back and fourth so you don't lose the gauge. Keeping the gauge measurement in check simply consists of a bar, or piece of wood, cut to the lenght of the gauge, and held in between each rail too keep they the right distance apart. This has to be done a second time with a narrower bar for the top layers. I've heard that the level of tolerance/industry standard in gauging is 1/16th of an inch, but for a backyard type ride, I don't think everything needs to as precise
(but don't slack off when doing it, you don't want your ride to tear itself up the first time around, or worse, after a few times around with you on it).
Just try it, and keep at it. It looks to be one of those things that the more you do it, the 'easier' it is.