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It is graphicly intense in some aspects. Sure it's not Halflife 2, but when these people are saying they look at high poly objects and their framerate drops, it is a symptom of their PC not being able to handle it.

 

Also, installing RAM is a cinch. Just remember to ground yourself every once in a while, otherwise bye-bye RAM

 

Installing it isn't the hard part, picking out the right stuff is. A lot of mobos don't like certian timings (hell, a lot of ASUS boards won't take anything but Corsair brand RAM), nor do other sticks that were already there. Speed can also be an issue. Like in the way that you can put PC2700 in a PC3200 mobo, but not visavera. Mixing RAM can cause a lot of problems, such as instability and not even being able to boot (I tried mixing 2gb Corsair XMS with 1gb Corsair Value, and it wouldn't boot because of the timings).

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  • 3 weeks later...

Vekoma Fan Boy - Do you have V1.6 yet..?

 

I just bought this last night and I want to know if "NL" is easy to use..?

 

Are there any websites which can give me a step by step instructions on how to create a good coaster..?

 

Can you create "Tunnels" or do you have to find a add-on pack.?

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I'm not VFB, but I'll try and help.

 

About NL being easy to use, it does take a lot of getting used to. It's basically like AutoCAD where everything has to be drawn out, and the track system is based on the beizer curve which can be shaped any way. Making a good, solid, smooth track does take a lot of time. However, the reward is nice, as you have an incredibly realistic coaster model.

 

There are some tutorials that come with the program in the help file. However they can only tell you so much. A lot of NL requires learning your own techniques, whats easiest for you. There are also a lot of knowledgeable people on many different NL communitys who can help when you're in a tough spot.

 

Tunnels can be done in game, however they are just a model that goes around track. Underground tunnels are very tricky because they need to be made in a 3D modeling program (as does most other scenery).

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You don't. All those catwalks have to be extracted from the ride by auto supporting with only catwalks (uncheck handrails, enable supports). You can then move them and shape them to your desire.

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About those "realistic" supports:

 

This link is a good picture describing how to get joints on the supports rather then just an end poking out when you just connect two tubes to one node. Make sure you use two nodes for a section where tubing interesects.

 

Even if you have all the best tools in the world to make supports (like auto flanger) your supports wont look so "real" if you dont know what they look like in real life. Dont just make up supports. Head over to rcdb and really look at other coaster's supports that are the same company as yours and even the same type as possible. Study every picture you can.

 

If you dont get what to do from pictures, GO TO A PARK WITH A COASTER LIKE IT! Nobody can turn down a bit of "research" on coasters! Its fun!

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I'm finding No Limits so technical, I have never used a "Wire frame" program before, I am having problems with keeping the track straight, curves, everything really.

 

I might stick with RCT3, No Limits looks a great program, but 2 tech for me.

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Keep using it! You'll improve! It's hard getting used to it if your coming from using RCT3 but the more you try, the better you get. Every expert at something was once a beginner.

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  • 10 months later...

I need AHG help. I have been trying for hours to get it to work, but I have made no progress, whatsoever. I do everything the directions tell me, but the track still comes out all bumpy and twisted. I am really getting frustrated.

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I could probably rant on for pages about the AHG, but here's some good tips you might need to know:

 

1. The track has to be relatively smooth when it goes in if you want it to come out smooth.

--a. If you feel a bit lazy and don't want to spend all that time smoothing the entire track, take it and put it thru the ahg at Heartline=0 with 30-50 foot segments. Do that a few times, changing the segment # every time, but not varying so much (send a 2000 foot track in for 120 segments, then send that result in for 105 segments, then send that in for 90 segments. When you're satisfied, color the spines where needed and send it thru with heartline values and such...

--b. DON'T HEARTLINE SOMETHING ONCE! Send it thru multiple times. If it does not come out right, mess with the origional file, make little adjustments, and send it thru again. Keep doing this until you are completely satisfied. If one little thing bothers you, fix it!

2. If the track is twisted and warped, it is probably because you colored the spine incorrectly. For some elements, I use these configs:

--a. Loops: Leave them. Don't color the spine at all. The G's will take care of the shape anyway. If it comes out wrong, play around with the loop's shape, not the ahg

--b. Corkscrews: Same idea. Don't color anything. f it is shaped correctly, the G's will take care of it

--c. Barrel roll/0g roll/anything that twists 360 straight: Make it 4 segments. Bank it how you want, but it should most likely be 4 segments. I go with the middle being 180, the ones before and after being 35 and -35, and the last ones being 0. Color the middle 2 segments black, the first segment red, and the last segment green. That will yield the best result.

--d. Immelman/Dive Roll: Same as the loop and corkscrew. No color. If it comes out warped or banked strangely, play around with the element, not the ahg

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^Though if you look for the v1.9 demo, that has unlimited film time, but no sound, compared to the demo of the newest one which only lets take 30 second clips with sound. But the no sound thing doesn't matter since most everyone slaps on some music while editing.

 

 

EDIT after 10 seconds on google I found a demo of 1.9. http://www.ausgamers.com/files/details/html/4487

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